Sunday, November 22, 2015

Marie Misbehaves

Marie took the last bite of before-crust pizza at a spindly table of the corner of 9th and Christian. The slice from Lorenzo’s on the north end of the Italian Market was an unusual lunch choice for her. “Very unhealthy, very unhealthy,” she said, splaying her French manicure over the paper plate. “But I had to do it. I just wanted to grub today.”

On a typical afternoon, Marie would be cooking for two six year olds. The kids are best friends and live together with their moms, who are also best friends. Maria babysits and helps keep up the home. “The kitchen is bigger than mine, but I cook regardless of the size of the kitchen,” she said. Yesterday she made pasta with red sauce, sautéed mushrooms in garlic sauce, broccoli with lemon, and a few pieces of beef on the side. She smiled proudly. “So ya, I cook.”

Marie moved to Philadelphia from St. Paul Minnesota ten years ago. She has a love/hate relationship with the city. The love is food; she can get good Spanish food at Tierra Columbiana or Freddy and Tony’s, Vietnamese at Pho Ha, quick and convenient lunch at City View Pizza, or cheap ingredients to make an astonishing meal at the Italian Market. The thing she hates about Philly? “There’s something about the east coast… people are dry.” The buttons on her denim blouse hit the table as she leans forward. “I’m being polite.”

Marie misses the warmth and friendliness of St. Paul. “My heart is in the Midwest,” she said, clasping her hands together over her pink lace cami. She goes back to St. Paul more frequently then Puerto Rico, where her aunts and sisters still live. “It’s sad, but it’s true,” she said with a shrug.

We sat on the corner of the very street of Marie’s introduction to Philly eleven years ago. She visited a friend - a chef - and their first stop was the Italian Market. Outdoor produce stalls with outrageous one-dollar deals (Seriously. Buckets of clementines, pears, or apples for a dollar), cheese shops that are overly generous with their samples, a tortilleria that emits the smell of masa down the block, forcing you to purchase a bucket of avocados, a bunch of fresh cilantro, and seven limes (for three dollars), fresh fish, handmade sausage… all of which attracts the most diverse crowd in the city; how could one not swoon? “You don’t even need to have a refrigerator if you live around here!” she said.

This afternoon she was back in the neighborhood for an acupuncture appointment with Dr. Wang. Maria has Fibromyalgia and was diagnosed with stage-3 cervical cancer last spring. Her health insurance company recommended the acupuncturist on 9th. She’s found that her weekly 25-minute appointments really help. She pointed to the dingy yellow sign down the block. “You can’t expect anything glamorous,” she said, “but they do what they’re supposed to.”


She indulged in a slice of pizza because Dr. Wang was late and she had time to kill. “In a day that I’m not misbehaving, I like making soup,” she said. She’ll cook for herself and the girls - a serving of vegetables and a small piece of meat. I ask if the kids are picky. Her 90s-style flipped hair sprang as she shook her head. “I cook with a Hispanic twist, so my food has a lot of flavor,” she said. “They don’t complain.”

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